K2 climbing routes
| K2 climbing routes |
 Map of K2, Pakistan There are less than 300 people who have summitted the world’s second highest mountain in the world with more than half using the Abruzzi spur. The climbing on K2 is harder and the weather is worse than many other Himalayan peaks so is known as the Savage Mountain for good reason!
South East ridge (or more commonly known as the Abruzzi spur) After a trek to the base of the Abruzzi spur the route starts on moderate snow slopes followed by a rocky section which leads to Camp 1 at 6,000m. This camp is exposed to the wind but is considered to be relatively secure with little history of avalanche. The climbing above Camp II is more technical with the hardest section leading through a steep cliff band known as House’s Chimney. Camp II is located not far above the Chimney Camp 2 at approximately 6,800m. Above Camp II there is section of moderate scrambling leading to the Black Pyramid. This is probably the most technical part of the route at VS on mixed rock and ice. Camp III is perched at the top of the Black Pyramid and normally above a serac at 7,450m. At this height, during unsettled weather conditions the gap between K2 and Broad Peak creates a funnel effect increasing the wind speed. This camp is also exposed to avalanche.
From Camp III, the route ascends a snowy shoulder, the primary dangers come during storms, as this section of the route often avalanches. It is also fairly featureless making descent in bad weather nearly impossible without a GPS unit to guide your way. Cresting the "Shoulder," the team will place Camp IV at 8000 m. The route to Camp IV is along a moderate snow slope known as the Shoulder. This section of the route is prone to avalanche from snow slab on the Shoulder and also seracs fall from above. The featureless terrain makes descent in bad weather difficult. There is no fixed spot for the camp, it ranges from 7,600 to 8,000m.
The summit day is the most dangerous day on the climb. The route goes up a steep couloir called the Bottleneck and near the top there is an exposed snowy traverse. The summit ridge also provides challenging climbing until the angle eases as one approaches the summit. The timings on the route vary but has taken as long as 20 hours to reach the summit mainly due to hard ice in the Bottleneck and Traverse.
Gary Pfisterer, one of The Mountain Company leaders, led a successful expedition to K2 in 2000 where five members reached the summit. South-South-East Spur (FA 1994). The spur joins the Abruzzi route on the shoulder, it is know as an objectively safer route than the others. South West Pillar or the Magic Line (FA 1986). A steep and hard route first climbed by a Polish team. South Face or the Polish Route. Objectively dangerous route exposes to serac fall and snow slab avalanche. North Ridge from China (FA 1982). The route follows the impressive north ridge until 7,800m when it traverses across the north face to gain the North East ridge. Climbing on this route is mainly on ice and is sustained at a moderate angle but without great technical difficulty. North West Face from China (FA 1990). The route starts from the K2 glacier and climbs the North West ridge until traversing the North West face to join the North ridge to the summit.
The Mountain Company's trek to K2: K2 base camp and the Gondogoro la Recommended books and maps: |