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View of K2 from Broad Peak base camp
K2 is the second highest mountain in the world and is located in the Karakoram part of the Himalayan range. Standing at 8,611 metres K2 takes second place only to Mount Everest. The summit of K2 is on the border of China and the Northern Areas of Pakistan.
Summary of K2 history
1861: Henry Haversham Godwin-Austen saw the summit of K2 from a point above Urdukas next to the Baltoro glacier.
1887: Francis Youghusband reached the Baltoro Glacier from the Old Mustagh pass with a small group of porters.
1890: Italian Roberto Lerco made the first reconnaissance of K2, probably the first person to set foot on the mountain.
1892: William Conway was the first to travel the full length of the Baltoro on a scientific and mountaineering expedition. He made a world altitude record on climbing Pioneer Peak at 6,890m on Baltoro Kangri.
1902: International expedition to the North East ridge led by Oscar Eckenstein including the notorious Aleister Crowley, they reached a high point of 6,525m.
1909: Italian expedition led by Duke of Abruzzi and Luigi Amedeo di Savoia on the South East ridge (now know as the Abruzzi spur).
1938: American expedition on the Abruzzi spur led by Charles Houston. Their high point at 7,925m was the highest yet.
1939: Another American expedition on the Abruzzi this time led by Fritz Weissner. The high point was 8,382m (without supplementary oxygen) although Dudley Wolfe and three sherpas died on the descent.
1953: Second American expedition led by Charles Houston where a height of 7,900m was reached. An attempt to save the sick Art Gilkey failed when he was carried away in an avalanche. The Gilkey memorial was erected close to base camp.
1954: First ascent of K2 by Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni on an Italian expedition led by Ardito Desio.
1977: Second ascent of K2 by a huge Japanese expedition. Six Japanese and one Pakistani reached the summit.
1978: British expedition led by Chris Bonington on the West ride. The climb was abandoned when Nick Estcourt was killed in an avalanche. Third ascent of K2 by an America expedition on the North East ridge/Abruzzi spur. Four climbers reached the summit using little or no oxygen.
1979: Fourth ascent of K2 by Reinhold Messner and Michl Dacher, they used no supplemental oxygen.
1981: Fifth ascent of K2 by a Japanese expedition via the West ridge.
1982: Sixth ascent of K2 and the first from the Chinese side.
1986: Wanda Rutkiewicz and Liliane Barrard become the first women to climb K2. British expedition led by Alan Rousse and John Barry on the North West ridge, Alan died after reaching the summit via the Abruzzi. Julie Tulis became the first British women to summit K2 but died on descent.
1990: “Free K2” expedition leads an international effort to clean the mountain.
1995: Alan Hinkes summits K2; Alison Hargreaves and Rob Slater dies on descent.
2000: The Mountain Company trek leader Gary Pfisterer led an International expedition where six members made it to the summit.
2004: 50th anniversary of the first ascent with 42 summits, the largest number ever in one season!
The Mountain Company trek to K2 basecamp:
K2 base camp and Gondogoro la
Recommended books and maps:
Pakistan
K2
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