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Our Upper Dolpo to Mugu Great Himalaya Trail (GHT) group in Nepal—led by Ben Walker and Bhim Sunuwar—arrived in Kathmandu on October 3rd 2026. This was a special exploratory departure, marking the first time we’ve run this section of the Great Himalaya Trail. Joined by eight seasoned trekkers who had completed multiple GHT stages in past years, the team built on a reconnaissance trek carried out by our Nepalese guides over the Summer of 2026. Our international leader was Ben Walker, and the Nepalese Sirdar was Bhim Sunuwar. Other guides assisting were Sanja Tamang, Suman Tamang, and Pasang Tamang, with Jagatman leading the kitchen team.
The weather across mid-western Nepal remained steady throughout, serving up spectacular, clear views. The earlier cyclone left some snow on the passes which meant the team had to break trail at higher altitudes. This route definitely pushed the limits, proving to be every bit as wild and demanding as we thought it would be. As trek leader Ben summed it up: "One of the most challenging, beautiful, and exciting treks, in equal measure!". Running an exploratory route like this was a fantastic learning experience, and we picked up valuable on-the-ground insights that will allow us to make key logistical improvements for 2027.
Ben sums up his experience leading this group:
“This was a very successful trip that I am sure the group will remember for a long time. Personally ranks as one of my best treks ever/anywhere.This was a sustained, physical trek to a very remote and unique part of North West Nepal. Some days felt like a blend between Tibet with New Zealand and the Canadian Rockies. with the extraordinary topography and landscapes more than making up for the 'recce' nature of the journey.
We were very fortunate to have three weeks of stable, clear, sunny, and dry weather across the route, with just a couple of damp afternoons early on around Seduwa and Phoksundo. The group acclimatised exceptionally well, allowing us to gain a day ahead of the Kang La (5,360m) before crossing into Shey Gompa. There was fresh snow on the Kang La, the Nyingma Gyanzen / Ridge Pass, Yala La (5,250m), and Chyargo La.
The crux of the route lay beyond Pho village, where the terrain becomes committing, lofty, and technically demanding. Traversing the airy North East facing Ridge Pass meant breaking trail through thigh-deep powder snow, followed by exposed scrambling and loose descents across the Yala La and down the Chyandi Khola to Takla Khola. Once we received word that a cyclone was due to arrive around October 30th, we adapted our schedule and walked three days in two—pushing through from Thajachaur via Ghobutsa to Chhaila—to ensure the entire party exited safely to Kathmandu before the weather closed in.”
Departing Kathmandu in early October, the group flew via Nepalgunj to Juphal to begin their journey into Upper Dolpo. With the team acclimatising smoothly, they made good time past the turquoise waters of Phoksundo Lake and continued over the Kang La to Shey Gompa. A scheduled rest day at Shey Gompa provided an opportunity to take the high trail to Kagyupa Monastery, returning along the lower valley where they discovered fascinating fossils embedded in the rock.
Crossing the Yambur La (4,822m) past Samling monastery and Bhijer village, the expedition moved towards Pho village, marking the transition into the wild heart of the Great Himalaya Trail. As is typical of pioneering traverses in the west of Nepal, this stretch proved to be an authentic alpine challenge. The team encountered unconsolidated snow requiring microspikes, steep descents off high cols, and exposed balcony paths. The demanding traverse along the Chyandi Khola involved river crossings, scrambling, and a steep climb over a 4,450m pass before dropping through pristine silver birch forests to Takla Khola. You can view the locations of the camps and the high passes on our Google Maps for Upper Dolpo to Mugu GHT
As with all of our expeditions, monitoring approaching regional weather patterns remained critical. Tracking an incoming late-season cyclonic storm forecast to hit western Nepal around October 30th, the leadership team elected to bypass the side trip to Mugu village. By combining the final stages from Thajachaur down to Chhaila, the group completed the high mountain route. From the roadhead at Chhaila they drove by jeep via Rara Lake to Jumla airport to spend the night in a lodge. Five members of the group who were concerned about delays flying back to Kathmandu via Nepalganj took a spectacular helicopter flight from Jumla Airport. The rest of the group drove from Jumla to Nepalgunj and back to Kathmandu and fortunately arrived on schedule with no significant delays.
Well done to the entire group for completing this sustained, committing and arduous trek. High-level GHT traverses are not comparable to standard trekking circuits in Nepal; the paths are often faint, loose and airy, requiring trekkers to have a solid head for heights, sure-footedness, and mental resilience. This is why we carefully screen all trekkers joining our GHT departures to ensure their experience matches the objective.
If you are torn between heading East or West from Upper Dolpo on the Great Himalaya Trail (GHT), direction matters. Walking West directly from Upper Dolpo toward Mugu offers a pure wilderness experience: fewer jeep tracks, truly remote terrain, and raw, untouched valleys. That said, it is an exceptionally demanding expedition. Upper Dolpo to Mugu features significantly tougher terrain than heading East toward Upper Mustang, making it best suited for trekkers who have already cut their teeth on challenging GHT stages like Kanchenjunga to Makalu.
Prefer heading East instead? While road expansion has impacted parts of the region, we’ve reimagined our Upper Dolpo to Upper Mustang GHT route. We've added a wild and remote final leg that crosses the rarely traversed Ghami La high pass, dropping straight down into the ancient village of Ghami located in Upper Mustang. If you are curious about how road developments currently affect the route? Check out our Trip Report for Upper Dolpo to Upper Mustang GHT group in May/June 2026.
A big thank you to Ben Walker and Bhim Sunuwar for their leadership plus the rest of the trek crew who worked exceptionally hard across this remote terrain.
We’re heading back to Upper Dolpo to Mugu on the Great Himalaya Trail in October 2027! Full details will be live on our website shortly, but interest is already building. If you'd like to join us for this remote wilderness journey, send us a message to secure your spot on the enquiry list. Please get in touch with us to discuss the trip or schedule an online call.
Trek on!
Roland Hunter
www.themountaincompany.co.uk