Upper Mustang Circuit
Nepal

You will be met on arrival at Kathmandu airport and driven back to the hotel.  Please provide travel plans on booking and we will arrange the pick up and transfer.

This is a one day guided sightseeing tour of the Kathmandu Valley, visiting three out of the seven World Heritage Sites. You will start off by visiting Patan Durbar Square, then drive to the Buddhist stupa at Boudhanath, followed by the last stop of the day at the Hindu shrine of Pashupatinath. The tour is likely to finish around 4pm. The rest of the day is free to explore further Kathmandu as well as to pack your bags for the trek starting tomorrow morning. You can leave a bag at the hotel with items not needed on the trek.

Three major towns are located in the valley, Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur, each having a great artistic and architectural tradition. Kathmandu is the capital and the largest city in the country. Patan, the second largest, is separated from Kathmandu by a river. Bhaktapur, the third largest, is towards the eastern end of the valley, and its relative isolation is reflected in its slower pace and more distinctly medieval atmosphere.

In the morning, we will drive you from the hotel to Kathmandu domestic airport. On the flight to Pokhara, you get superb views of the Annapurnas from the right-hand side of the plane. After landing at Pokhara, we drive you to the hotel, and you have the rest of the day to explore the lakeside town. A good option is to take a boat trip across Phewa Lake and then walk to the Shanti Peace Stupa. This is high above the lake and, on a clear day, the panoramic views of the Himalayas are superb. The walk uphill from the lake to the Shanti Peace Stupa takes about 45 minutes.

Important note: there is a safety risk to consider when flying on airlines in Nepal. If you would like to avoid the flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara, there is an option to drive, and this takes about 7 to 8 hours (depending on the traffic). There are also safety considerations with driving in Nepal, as the roads are busy and road traffic accidents happen from time to time. For information about the aviation risk in Nepal, read the relevant sections “Threat and Risk Assessment” and “Internal flights in Nepal”. Please get in touch with us if you would like to discuss this further.

These days, thanks to significant road improvements in recent years, the scenic overland journey from Pokhara to Jomsom and Kagbeni offers a far more reliable experience than the often-disrupted flights to Jomsom. The road conditions can vary, expect stretches of paved highway interspersed with rough, unpaved sections, especially as you gain altitude. Driving this road allows you to appreciate the transformation of the landscape as you venture north into the heart of the Himalayas.

Leaving the lakeside of Pokhara, the road winds through lush green hills. You pass through bustling local towns, catching glimpses of everyday Nepali life with vibrant markets, terraced rice paddies, and children walking to school. Around Beni, the landscape becomes more rugged and the air crisper. The Kali Gandaki Gorge, the deepest in the world, begins to make its presence felt. The river below churns with immense power, flanked by towering cliffs. As you head north, the scenery begins its dramatic transformation. The hills become steeper, and the mighty Annapurna and Dhaulagiri mountains start to come into view. The Kali Gandaki river, milky with glacial melt, carves its way alongside the road, its roar a constant companion.

As you ascend further towards Jomsom, the district headquarters of Mustang, the landscape takes on a more arid, almost desert-like appearance. Apple orchards become a common sight as this region is famous for its apples. For the final leg of the journey from Jomsom to Kagbeni, you drive along the wide, gravelly bed of the Kali Gandaki river valley. Finally, as you approach Kagbeni, the ochre-colored houses are clustered together, and the prayer flags flutter in the breeze. Kagbeni, with its traditional Tibetan architecture at the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and Jhong Khola rivers, feels like a gateway to another world – the mystical Upper Mustang.

Today, we will go for a walk, and this is to help the acclimatisation process to the high altitude. There are a number of options, such as walking off the road towards Muktinath or exploring the trail uphill to the West of Kagbeni. This day walk from Kagbeni is an opportunity to experience the unique blend of culture and landscape that the lower Mustang region on the Annapurna Circuit has to offer.

It is well worth taking some time to explore Kagbeni. This fascinating village sits at the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and Jhong Khola rivers and marks the traditional entry point to Upper Mustang. Wander through its narrow alleyways, observe the traditional mud-brick houses, and visit the Kagbeni Monastery (Kagchen Thupten Samphel Ling Gompa). This ancient Sakya sect monastery offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape and provides a glimpse into the local religious practices.

Beginning in the traditional village of Kagbeni, the gateway to Upper Mustang, we embark on a scenic drive towards Samar, passing through the region's unique, high-altitude desert landscape. The traditional trekking trail for Upper Mustang starts in Kagbeni, whereas we avoid two days of walking on the road by driving further up to Samar.

At Samar, we get out of the jeep, and after having lunch at the lodge, we start our trekking journey. After a short descent, we cross a suspension bridge, and then we walk slowly up to our first pass. It is normal to feel the effects of the high altitude as our bodies are in the process of acclimatising. From the pass, we descend into a dramatic gorge with steep cliffs on either side, and after turning the corner, we walk up to the Chungzhi Caves (Chungzhi is the mineral calcite). This is a very important place for Buddhists as Guru Rinpoche visited in the middle of the 8th Century on his way from India to Tibet. 

Continuing on from the caves, we walk up towards the village of Shyangboche. We meet the road here and then quickly turn off back onto the trekking trail, following this to the small hamlet of Tamagaon. Our trek finishes in Ghiling (3,570m), a distinctive Upper Mustang settlement characterised by its whitewashed architecture, painted chortens, and prayer wheels.

Before leaving Ghiling, we visit the old Gompa on a hill above the village with excellent views of Annapurna 1 and Nilgiri. We take the trekking trail starting near the old Gompa, away from the road that is far below us in the valley. Our trail traverses the hillside and then ascends to cross Keke La (4,030m). From the pass, we descend to the road and then cross it to take the trekking trail on the other side. After crossing a small pass, we descend to Ghami village, taking about 4 hours from Ghiling.

In Ghami village, we have lunch at Royal Mustang Lodge, owned by the ex Royal Family of Lo Manthang. From Ghami village, we cross the river on a bridge, then ascend to a pass, then contour and gradually descend to a jeep track. After about 10 minutes, we arrive in Dhakmar, so it takes about 1 ½ hours from Ghami.

Dhakmar is nestled within the dramatic landscapes of Upper Mustang and exudes a mystical atmosphere. The village has towering red cliffs that create a breathtaking and almost otherworldly backdrop for the village. There are the ancient cave systems carved into the base of the red cliffs. These caves, some believed to be centuries old, once served as homes and meditation retreats, offering a glimpse into the region's history.

Our day begins with a walk through the upper part of Dhakmar village, passing the distinctive red-hued turret formations that guard ancient sky caves etched into the cliff faces. We then turn right, leaving the jeep track behind as we start our ascent into a dramatic gorge, which at times is quite narrow.

Upon reaching the first pass, marked by the vibrant flutter of prayer flags, we take a short detour to the highest vantage point. Here, we will be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views stretching down to the village of Dhakmar and across the expansive main valley of Upper Mustang. Continuing our trek, we traverse a high-altitude plateau before embarking on the ascent to the Mui La pass, which stands at 4,170 meters. From here, we enjoy stunning vistas down to Ghar Gompa and the charming village of Merang nestled below. To the west, the majestic peaks of Saribung (6,328m) and Bhikruti (6,476m) dominate the horizon.

Our descent leads us along a trail towards Ghar Gompa, also called Lo Gekar, surrounded by red chortens. It takes about 2 ½ hours to walk from Dhakmar to Ghar Gompa. This important monastery belongs to the Nyingma sect and holds deep significance due to its association with Guru Rinpoche. Adjacent to the Gompa, there is a restaurant where we have an early lunch.

After leaving the monastery complex, we briefly rejoin the jeep track for about five minutes before turning onto the trekking path. A steady uphill climb leads us to another pass, after which the trail contours through a captivating landscape of rocks painted in vibrant hues of red, grey, and yellow. Keep an eye out for the elusive marmots and their burrows along the way. A subsequent half-hour ascent brings us to our second high point of the day, the Choku La pass, reaching an altitude of approximately 4,298m.

We then begin our descent, ensuring we keep to the right at the trail junction. Soon, the intriguing ruins of several ancient houses will come into view. Behind these remnants lie fascinating caves, and a short exploration of the accessible ground-level cave is recommended. Continuing our descent along a well-maintained path, we'll traverse several passes, each offering expansive and awe-inspiring views of the Upper Mustang landscape. From the final pass of the day, the legendary walled city of Lo Manthang will finally appear in the valley below, a captivating sight that marks our destination. To the east, the towering, snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas provide a majestic backdrop to this unforgettable day of trekking. It takes about 3 hours to walk from Ghar Gompa to Lo Manthang.

Today is dedicated to immersing ourselves in the heart of Upper Mustang: the ancient walled city of Lo Manthang. This fascinating settlement, steeped in history and culture, invites exploration within its formidable mud-brick walls. Our exploration begins with a walk around the perimeter of the city walls. These impressive ramparts, once crucial for defense, now offer a unique perspective of Lo Manthang and the surrounding landscape. As we circumnavigate the city, we'll observe the traditional architecture, the tightly packed houses, and the strategic layout that has preserved Lo Manthang's character for centuries. This walk provides a sense of the city's scale and its historical significance as the former capital of the Kingdom of Lo.

Our exploration then takes us inside the walls, where we will visit three of Lo Manthang's most significant and revered monasteries. These monasteries are significant centers of the Sakya sect of Tibetan Buddhism and hold immense cultural and spiritual importance for the people of Lo Manthang. Exploring them offers a glimpse into the rich history, art, and religious traditions of this remote region.

Jampa Monastery: The oldest of the main monasteries, dating back to the early 14th century. It's known for its impressive three-story structure, intricate woodwork, traditional Tibetan paintings, and a large statue of Maitreya Buddha. Notably, it houses 108 ancient mandalas on its walls, some adorned with gold, silver, turquoise, coral, and gemstones.

Thubchen Gompa: Constructed in the late 15th century, this monastery features beautiful Tibetan-style architecture with whitewashed walls and detailed woodwork. Its murals, sculptures, and paintings offer insights into the region's heritage. It's an important site for religious ceremonies and the vibrant Tiji Festival.

Chode Gompa (Dragkar-Thegchen Ling): Established in the late 13th century, this is the primary Sakya monastery in Lo Manthang and currently houses monks and esteemed lamas. It's known for its religious significance and intricate Tibetan architecture.

Today offers a fascinating exploration of the historical and spiritual sites located north of Lo Manthang towards the Tibet border. We visit the Jhong Caves, Lo Nyifu, and Lo Garfu monasteries. On the way back, we will drive via Thinggar village to see the summer Royal palace. We will do this scenic drive in the morning, taking about a 3 to 4-hour jeep drive.

Our journey begins as we depart Lo Manthang, venturing into the unique landscape beyond the walled city. Our first destination is the remarkable Sija Jhong caves. This extensive cave complex contains an impressive 45 rooms, offering a glimpse into the ancient habitation and possibly defensive structures of the region's past.

Next, we will visit the Lo Nyifu monastery. What makes this monastery particularly unique is that it is partially built within a cave, blending natural formations and spiritual devotion. Next, we visit Lo Garfu monastery, a significant nunnery in the area. Witnessing the spiritual practices provides a deeper understanding of the Buddhist traditions upheld in Upper Mustang.

Our return journey to Lo Manthang takes us through the Thinggar village, offering a glimpse into local life and agricultural practices. We will also pass by the site of the Royal Summer Palace. En route, we see the excellent views of the old Royal Palace perched on a hill and an old Gompa situated on the adjacent hilltop. We will return to Lo Manthang by lunchtime, allowing time in the afternoon for further exploration of Lo Manthang.

Today, we start the three-day descent from Lo Manthang following a trail on the East bank of the Kali Gandaki, so far away from the road that is on the West bank. We leave Lo Manthang, passing through the traditional kani gateway before turning left and walking through a plantation of willow trees, which leads us to a suspension bridge. Shortly after crossing the bridge, we follow a clearly marked "Trekking trail." This path gradually ascends, culminating at the Lo La pass, which rewards us with magnificent farewell views back towards Lo Manthang. 

We join the road briefly only at the top of the pass. From there, our trail contours around the scenic ridgeline called Udi Danda. To the west, the jeep road is visible far below in the valley. At the end of the ridge, we reach a trail junction. We take the left fork to begin our steep descent towards Dhee village (the right fork leads to Tsarang). This section of the trek is spectacular, leading us through a narrow and dramatic gorge. We descend a steep trail, with towering rock walls on either side.

As we continue our descent, we soon see Dhee's green fields, which are a vibrant contrast to the arid surroundings. We continue our downhill trek until we reach the Mani wall situated at the upper part of the village. The walk from Lo Manthang to Dhee typically takes around 4 hours. Upon arrival in Dhee, we will stop for lunch at one of the local lodges, all housed within traditional-style buildings. 

After lunch, we walk through Dhee village before descending to join a path that runs alongside the Kali Gandaki river. We then cross a suspension bridge then walk into a side gorge. Our afternoon walk continues along the riverbed before we ascend stone stairs out of the gorge. After approximately 10 minutes of walking along the jeep track, we arrive at our final destination for the day: Yara village. The second part of the day's trek from our lunch stop in Dhee takes approximately 2 hours.

If you have time and energy, in the afternoon, you can walk up to Tashi Kabum, which is a cave complex not too far from the village. It's a significant religious site for the Ningmapa sect of Buddhism and is believed to have been built in the 12th century. The monastery is carved into the high cliffs of a rugged canyon, and the main part of the monastery, including the Lama's meditation place, is inside the caves.

We leave Yara village, cross over a small canyon, and then ascend to the ridge that has a viewpoint of Himalayan peaks. We contour around and then enter a high-altitude plateau before descending to the suspension bridge crossing Dhechyang Khola. There is one tea shop at Lower Dhye, also known as Riverside. From here, there is a long climb to a pass. On the other side, we follow the jeep track for a short while before taking the trekking trail signposted to Tangge. After crossing another high-altitude plateau, we have a steep descent to Tangge village. Today’s walk is through a rugged, arid landscape, featuring dramatic cliffs, deep canyons, and stunning rock formations

Nestled amidst the stark and majestic landscapes of Upper Mustang, Tangge village offers a glimpse into the traditional life and unique character of this remote region, far removed from the busier trails. Tangge is characterised by its compact cluster of traditional mud-brick houses, tightly packed together and built into the natural contours of the land. The flat rooftops are often used for drying crops or as communal spaces. Exploring Tangge involves wandering through its narrow alleyways, observing the traditional architecture, and engaging with the friendly locals. You might observe traditional craftwork, such as weaving or spinning wool, taking place. It is a chance to experience the authentic rhythm of life in Upper Mustang.

Leaving Tangge, we cross the suspension bridge and then contour around the hillside until crossing a second suspension bridge over the Yak Khola. From here, there is a sustained climb to the Paa La at an altitude of 4,183m. The pass is 7km from Tangge and takes about 3 hours walking. Descending from the pass, we soon arrive at the yak herders' shelter and water spring at Paa Kharka. From here we follow the high trail and, after about an hour, arrive at another minor pass. We follow a contouring trail with good views across to the other side of the valley, where we can see the trail we followed on the first day from Samar to Ghiling. 

The last section follows the exposed Siyarko Tangk Danda; this ridgeline is known for its unique geological formations. We traverse areas with wind-eroded cliffs, canyons carved by ancient rivers, and unusual rock structures and colorations. The stark beauty of this landscape, with its muted earth tones punctuated by occasional greenery, is a defining feature of this section of the trek. There are several exposed sections of trail, although it has been significantly improved over the years and has now been widened in places.

On the descent from the ridge, there is a steep trail that descends directly towards Tetang far below. We descend to the river and then cross a bridge over to the village. If this trail is not maintained, then we have to take the longer trail by descending to Chussang and then walking back to Tetang along the jeep track. At the time of our recce trek in April 2025, the villagers from Tetang had recently worked to improve the direct trail to Tetang.

Upon reaching Tetang, we'll have the opportunity to explore this intriguing settlement. The atmosphere here can feel somewhat different from other villages, with a sense of quiet and a connection to the ancient past. We will encounter locals engaged in their daily activities, offering a glimpse into their resilient way of life in this remote region. The village is also known for its labyrinthine alleyways and the presence of ancient ruins and cave dwellings in its vicinity.

From Tetang village, we drive via Jomsom to Pokhara.

Today, we fly to Kathmandu.

Transfer to Kathmandu airport for the flight back home.  End of trip.